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Engagement Rings – a History

The giving of a betrothal gift by a suitor or his family is common through different cultures, and dates back many centuries. Diamond engagement rings are largely a Western tradition, and the exact timing of the gift, or hand it’s worn on differs from country to country. More than 80% of women in the UK wear an engagement ring before they marry, and the majority of these feature at least one diamond.

Origin of the diamond engagement ring

The exchange of wedding rings dates back to Ancient Egypt, but the practice of wearing a ring in the lead-up to the wedding began much later on. Possibly the first known use of a diamond engagement ring was in the thirteenth century, when Mary of Burgundy became engaged to the Archduke Maximilian of Austria. It is not known on which finger Mary wore her engagement ring, but the tradition of wearing it on the fourth finger of the left hand probably stems from the Ancient Egyptian belief that there was a direct link from this finger to the heart.

Why diamonds?

The appeal of a diamond engagement ring is universal, and needs little explanation. Their appearance, especially with a backdrop of gold or platinum, is unrivalled, and their tough properties represent the long-lasting nature of the commitment they represent. Diamonds come in a huge variety of shapes and sizes, meaning that they can suit anyone’s taste. The most common engagement ring has a solitaire diamond, round or princess-cut, set away from the band to channel the maximum amount of light. Trilogy settings are also very popular, as are unusually shaped stones such as marquise or oval, and designs with many smaller diamonds.

Diamonds are thought to have been first mined in India, where their beauty immediately gave them status as a religious icon. Whilst some diamonds made their way to Europe over the years, the trend for diamond jewellery really only took off in the 16th century, when world travel became more prevalent. The European upper class men began to give diamond engagement rings as betrothal gifts and, as we all know, when one well-known lady is seen with a new and exciting item of jewellery, everyone else begins to covet the same. Such a gift was not only a symbol of love and commitment, but a status symbol – only the rich could afford diamonds and gold. The discovery of a major diamond mine in Africa towards the end of the eighteenth century only served to increase the popularity of diamonds in all types of jewellery.

Scribbling rings

An early version of the diamond engagement ring as we know it was the “promise ring”, or “scribbling ring”. This curious name came from the custom of exchanging rings set with roughly cut diamonds as a sign of betrothal – and then using the diamond to scribble love notes to each other on glass windows and mirrors!

20th century

Since towards the mid-twentieth century, it has become customary for the man to choose an engagement ring alone, for the purpose of a surprise proposal. Many Westerners adage that the suitor should spend three months’ salary on the ring – although what many people don’t know is that this practice comes directly from a 1940s advertising campaign by DeBeers – the world’s biggest diamond mining company! These days, men can nicely sidestep the three months salary stipulation by buying the diamond engagement ring online, direct from the workshop, at around half the price of the high street!

As the 20th century progressed, many people became aware of the ethical and environmental effects of the jewellery they wore, as part of a widespread shift towards a more sustainable and ethical lifestyle. The trade in diamonds is now heavily regulated, and diamond engagement rings are customarily sold with a certificate that not only verifies their features, but also that the stone was is from a non-conflict source.

21st century

Since the millennium, the idea of the ‘mengagement ring’ has been introduced and has gradually increased in popularity. This is simply the practice of the man also wearing a ring during the engagement, and actually takes us full circle to the idea that engagement rings are gifts exchanged, rather than just from the man to the woman. Whilst mengagement rings are not always diamond-set, they will usually be decorative enough to distinguish them from a wedding ring. Many women, fed up of waiting for a proposal, now use mengagement rings to pop the question themselves!

Diamonds are forever…?

Even whilst trends change, diamond engagement rings are likely to remain a part of Western culture. As a visible, enduring and romantic statement of love and commitment, this is one item of jewellery that will never go out of fashion.

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