May Birthstone: The Beauty of the Emerald

The May birthstone is the emerald, a rare and beautiful gem known for it's captivating green colour. Emeralds in folklore are believed to possess magical qualities, ranging from counteracting the effects of poison, curing epilepsy and leprosy, and strengthening the memory of the wearer. As well as its position as the May birthstone, emerald is also the traditional gemstone associated with the astrological sign, Cancer. Emeralds are the traditional gift given for the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.

May Birthstone Meaning and History

Emeralds have resided within the Earth's crust far longer than humans have walked on top of it. Some have estimated that the oldest emeralds are 2.97 billion years old! Ancient Egyptians were mining emeralds as early as 330 BC, and the May birthstone was very highly valued in their society. Royals were often buried with emeralds, thought to provide protection for the afterlife. Cleopatra was particularly fond of the green gem. In fact, she claimed ownership of all the emerald mines in Egypt whilst she reigned.

Cleopatra was not the only ancient royal to be enamoured with emeralds. The Inca Empire highly prized these precious stones, adorning jewellery and statues alike with them. The Muzo Indians of Colombia had highly prized emerald mines, which they kept hidden from colonisers. So hidden, in fact, that it took nearly 400 years for them to be found.

Roman author and naturalist, Pliny the Elder, wrote about emeralds in his Natural History. Pliny stated that "nothing is greener". He even claimed that the stone had natural therapeutic properties to calm and soothe the strained eyes of gem cutters. While this may seem like an ancient relic of a simpler time, Pliny was actually correct. Scientists have now proven that the colour green relieves stress and eye strain.

Healing and mystical properties aside, emeralds are still highly valued today for their beautiful colour and rarity. Celebrities often choose to wear emeralds, from Blake Lively and her penchant for emerald earrings on the Met Gala carpet, to Elizabeth Taylor's famed jewellery collection which included an emerald so large and high in quality that it sold in 2011 for $6.5 million.

 

Where Do Emeralds Come From?

The May birthstone is found across the globe. Notable mines are located in Columbia, Brazil and Zambia. They are also mined in Afghanistan and Pakistan.

The mine from which your emerald is unearthed will determine the colour of the stone. Of the three main mining sites in Columbia, the emerald colours range from a dark, pure green unearthed in Muzo, to more yellow toned stones found in Coscuez, and the famed bluish green gems found in Chivor. Emeralds found in Zambia are usually blue-green too.

How to Choose Your May Birthstone

When it comes to shopping for an emerald, you will find that there is a large array of options to choose from. Much like diamonds, emeralds are graded for quality based on a number of factors. It is up to you which of these characteristics matter the most to you!

Emeralds are evaluated on their colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight. Gemmologists agree that colour is the most important attribute when it comes to the May birthstone, seconded by clarity.

Colour:

The most valuable emeralds are a deep green (sometimes bluish green) and transparent. The colour should not be too dark. The value of a stone increases when the colour is evenly distributed in the stone, with no areas of variation.

Clarity:

Clarity refers to how included the stone is. Inclusions are internal flaws which can usually be seen with the naked eye. Completely eye clean emeralds are very rare, and command a high price tag! Inclusions in emeralds can be very desirable too. Thanks to the green hue of the gem, the frondlike, wispy inclusions can be referred to as "jardin", as they appear like moss or vines within the stone.

Cut:

The cut of your stone will be very important. Emeralds are available in almost any gem cut, so it is down to your personal taste and the piece of jewellery that you want to create. Emerald cut is the traditional cut that was developed for the May birthstone. This has long, flat facets which allow the colour to be intensified for the viewer. The corners are cut off on angles which helps to keep the stone strong. However, emeralds are beautiful in any shape, from round, to cabochon, to other variations of step cuts. It's all about what is beautiful to you.

Carat:

Carat refers to the weight of the gem. As you would expect, a larger emerald will be worth more than a smaller one. Large emeralds are more hard to come by, due to the fragility of the mineral. Thanks to this, a 2 carat emerald will be more than twice the value of a 1 carat emerald of exactly the same quality. The value goes up on a curve due to the increased rarity of larger stones.

For a more in-depth exploration of emerald qualities, check out our emerald buyer's guide here.

How To Care For Your May Birthstone Jewellery

Emeralds are a beautiful rarity, and they have their own special needs to keep them in good condition. The May birthstone has a reputation of being soft, but that is not quite accurate. Although softer than diamonds or sapphires, emeralds still command a score of 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. The reason emeralds are known for fragility is not because of the mineral's inherent hardness. Emeralds are more likely to break or fracture because they are more likely to contain deposits of alternative material. They are more likely to possess internal fractures or inclusions which can cause weakness in the stone.

To care for your emeralds properly, simply treat them with a gentle hand. Do not clean your emerald jewellery in an ultrasonic cleaner, as this can cause fractures to widen. Avoid wearing your emerald ring to wash dishes in hot water, or when showering. Changes in pressure can impact the fractures in emeralds, so it is best to avoid taking them on aeroplanes.

Cleaning your May birthstone jewellery could not be simpler. All you need is a soft cloth or brush, and warm (not hot) soapy water. A mild soap is best.

 

How to Buy a May Birthstone Ring

If you would like to purchase a ring featuring an emerald, we would love to help you out! Get in touch with our in-house bespoke jeweller to discuss your options for this magnificent gem.